There are certain places where dining is not just about the meal, but about continuity. They carry history, tradition, and a cultural language expressed through ritual and repetition.

For the past several years, Lunar New Year at Empress by Boon has been part of my annual tradition. Each visit is not only a celebration of the holiday, but a reflection of the structure, symbolism, and discipline that define Cantonese banquet dining at its highest level.

This year, that experience extended beyond the table. I had the opportunity to meet Ho Chee Boon, the chef and owner behind Empress by Boon. He came by to introduce himself, and we spoke briefly about the philosophy behind Cantonese banquet culture and the experience he is shaping in San Francisco.

What stood out was not just the meal itself, but the responsibility behind it. There is a level of precision, heritage, and intention that often goes unnoticed when dining is reduced to presentation or trend.

Chef Ho Chee Boon is one of the most globally experienced Cantonese chefs of his generation, with a career spanning Asia, Europe, the Middle East, Africa, and the United States. Over decades of leadership in international fine dining, he has played a key role in bringing contemporary Cantonese cuisine to new audiences around the world.

As part of my Voices Shaping Culture series, I spoke with Chef Ho about the vision behind Empress by Boon, the responsibility of reviving a historic space, and how Cantonese cuisine continues to evolve on a global stage.

Voices Shaping Culture: Chef Ho Chee Boon

You spent many years leading kitchens around the world as International Executive Chef for Hakkasan before opening Empress by Boon in San Francisco. What inspired you to create a restaurant that reflects your personal vision of modern Cantonese cuisine?

Throughout my career, many people have come to associate my name with my role as the International Executive Chef of Hakkasan, which was an important and defining chapter in my professional journey. However, long before that period, I had already spent many years building my foundation and reputation across Asia, particularly in Singapore and Hong Kong.

From the very beginning of my career, I have always carried a personal mission — to bring Chinese cuisine, especially Cantonese culinary traditions, to different parts of the world. I believe food is one of the most powerful ways to build cultural understanding. By working in diverse regions and opening restaurants internationally, I have had the opportunity not only to introduce Chinese cuisine to new audiences, but also to train local teams and create meaningful cultural exchange through the kitchen.

Opening Empress by Boon in San Francisco was therefore not simply about creating another restaurant. It was a very personal decision to bring together the different chapters of my life — my Asian roots, my global experiences, and my long-standing commitment to sharing Chinese culinary heritage with future generations.

Empress by Boon is located in the historic former Empress of China space in San Francisco’s Chinatown. What did it mean to you to revive such an iconic location, and how did you approach honoring its legacy while introducing something new?

Reviving the former Empress of China space in San Francisco’s Chinatown carried deep emotional and cultural significance for me. This location holds many memories for the local community and represents an important chapter in the history of Chinese dining in the United States.

When I first stepped into the space, I felt a strong sense of responsibility — not only to honor its legacy, but also to reimagine what a contemporary Cantonese dining experience could look like for today’s global audience.

My approach was to preserve the spirit of celebration and generosity that traditional banquet dining represents, while introducing a more refined and modern interpretation through design, service, and culinary presentation. I wanted Empress by Boon to feel both respectful of history and forward-looking — a place where tradition and innovation can coexist naturally.

Cantonese banquet dining is deeply rooted in tradition and celebration. How do you balance preserving traditional techniques with presenting dishes in a way that resonates with modern diners?

Cantonese cuisine is deeply rooted in craftsmanship, discipline, and respect for ingredients. These principles do not change with time. What evolves is the way we communicate these values to new generations of diners.

For me, innovation is not about changing the soul of the cuisine, but about refining how it is experienced. This may involve lighter flavors, more elegant presentation, or a dining environment that reflects contemporary lifestyles. By doing so, we create a bridge between heritage and modern expectations, allowing Cantonese banquet culture to remain relevant and meaningful in a rapidly changing world.

San Francisco has one of the most influential Chinese culinary histories outside of Asia. How do you see the city shaping the future of Cantonese cuisine on the global stage?

San Francisco has one of the most significant Chinese culinary histories outside of Asia. It is a city shaped by immigration, cultural exchange, and a deep appreciation for quality ingredients and creativity.

I believe the future of Cantonese cuisine will be increasingly global, and cities like San Francisco will play an important role in shaping that evolution. Here, we have the opportunity to present Cantonese cuisine not only as a tradition, but as a living, evolving cultural expression that can speak to an international audience.

This environment encourages chefs to be both guardians of heritage and pioneers of new ideas, which is essential for the continued growth of our culinary culture.

After decades of experience in some of the world’s most respected kitchens, what continues to inspire you today as a chef and restaurateur?

After decades in professional kitchens around the world, what continues to inspire me most is the idea of legacy and cultural responsibility. I feel strongly that as chefs, we are not only cooking food — we are preserving traditions, building bridges between cultures, and shaping the future of our cuisine.

Training young chefs and giving opportunities to local teams in different countries has always been an important part of my journey. I believe that when people from different backgrounds learn to cook and understand Chinese cuisine, it creates respect, curiosity, and connection. This process of cultural exchange is something that motivates me every day and gives deeper meaning to my work.

Closing Thoughts

What stands out in Chef Ho Chee Boon’s perspective is the understanding that cuisine is not static. It is shaped by history, carried through generations, and continuously reinterpreted in new environments.

At Empress by Boon, this balance between tradition and evolution is clear. The experience reflects not only technical mastery, but a deeper commitment to preserving cultural identity while making it relevant for a global audience.

In a city like San Francisco, where culinary history and cultural exchange are deeply intertwined, this work becomes even more significant.

The Spotlight Series

The Spotlight Series highlights voices shaping culture, film, technology, business, and the culinary arts.

Future features will continue exploring individuals whose work influences how ideas move through industries and communities.

If you know a voice whose perspective deserves a wider stage, nominations are open through my website.

In today’s AI-driven discovery environment, digital authority has become the new foundation for visibility.

Thank You

Thank you, Chef Ho, for sharing your perspective and for the experience you are creating at Empress by Boon.

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About the Author

Susye Weng-Reeder, known online as SincerelySusye™, is a Google Verified Internet Personality, published author, and former tech industry professional with experience at Facebook, Apple, and Zoom.

Recognized as one of the first human AI indexed creators — not CGI — she has built a digital presence that surfaces across major AI platforms including ChatGPT, Perplexity, Gemini, and others. Her work reflects a deliberate approach to identity architecture, digital visibility, and long term authority in an AI driven discovery landscape.

Susye first gained recognition through intuitive healing, travel storytelling, and personal transformation writing. Over time, her focus expanded to include AI visibility, online identity strategy, and the evolving relationship between human creators and machine interpretation.

Today, she writes at the intersection of culture, technology, and emotional intelligence. SincerelySusye.com serves as a space for thoughtful analysis, creative expression, and conversations about how identity, authority, and narrative are shaped in the digital age.